Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone in skin care

Journal of Normal University ( Natural Science)  Vol.33 /No.4/ Aug. 2015

Article NO.：1004--5570(2015)04—0105—03

Performance and application of Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone in whitening cosmetics

WANG Zhuoya, FU Qiang, HANG Gaowei, LUO Xinru, WU Peicheng

Abstract：Object To investigate the performance of neohesperidin dihydrochalcone (NHDC) in whitening, and discuss the possibility of NHDC as the main effective components in whitening products.

Method: With three commonly used whitening agents for the control,including β-arbutin, kojic acid and VC, the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of NHDC in vitro was measured by the rate of oxidation of L—Dopa．and the inhibitory effect to melanin synthesis in mouse melanoma cell lines B16 WSS measured by NaOH lysis method．At the same time, mask liquid was compounded using NHDC as the main effective ingredients, various indicators were determined, and human safety tests were made.

Result:  Comparing with β-arbutin, kojic acid and VC, NHDC had the highest tyrosinase inhibitory activity.  The inhibitory effect to melanin synthesis of NHDC Was 3 times than β-arbutin, similar to kojic acid and VC. The mask liquid with NHDC as the main effective components was safe to human body.

Conclusion: Comparing with these three commonly used whitening agents, Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone has more excellent comprehensive performance, is a new type whitening agent having the potential applications of,and could be used in the development of new type of whitening cosmetics. 

Flavonoids exists in the vast majority of plants, that plays an important role in the growth and development of plants. Previous studies have shown that these compounds can promote skin metabolism, scavenge free radical , and inhibit melanin. As a common whitening and skin care additive, a large number of flavonoids extracted from herbal source has been used in the cosmetics industry, such as licorice flavonoids, soy isoflavones . Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone (NHDC) is one of flavonoids from plant , mainly as a sweetener in food/medicine industry. Its safety has been widely recognized worldwide, but their applied research in whitening is a bit small.

In this study, through NHDC inhibiting tyrosinase and melanin production tests, we observe the whitening effect. Furthermore, we prepared the liquid whitening mask majorly composed of NHDC, and implemented safety testing, in order to provide theoretical support for the development of new whitening and skin care products .

1.Materials and methods

1.1 Cells and biochemical reagent

1.2 Determination of tyrosinase enzyme activity

1.3 Cultured mouse B16 melanoma cells

1.4 B16 cells melanin synthesis inhibition rate detection

1.5 liquid NHDC mask Preparation

Ref to <6 steps to Cosmetics Formulation design>, PH6.5.

Table 1 Compounds of NHDC mask liquid

1.6 Human Safety Test

According to "Hygienic Standard for Cosmetics" requirements.

2 Result and analysis

2.1 to determine tyrosinase enzyme activity

In previous research, the author has already compared tyrosinase inhibition rates of  these 3 reagents NHDC /β- arbutin / VC, and found that NHDC tyrosinase inhibition rate is better than  β-arbutin and VC, and tyrosinase inhibition rate of β-arbutin and VC is consistent with other people’s measurement results. In addition, the author further compared with NHDC acid tyrosinase inhibition rate and found NHDC tyrosinase inhibition rate is also more excellent than kojic acid (see Figure 1).

2.2 Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone Effecting on inhibiting B16 melanoma cells melanin production

Melanin synthesis inhibition rate is positively correlated with determinand concentrations. When determinand NHDC concentration is 0.10%, the melanin synthesis inhibition rate reached 37.99%, consistent with kojic acid and VC; at the same concentration, melanin synthesis inhibition rate of β-Arbutin is 12.59%, which is about 1/3 of NHDC.

Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone is not only available in international cosmetics raw materials directory(version 2007), and has already been used in the food industry as a new sweetener, natural without toxics. NHDC mask liquid(1%) in this study was non-irritating to human skin .Moreover, as a new potential whitening agent, neohesperidin- the upstream ingredients of NHDC, a natural citrus extract, is cheap and easily obtained.

In summary, Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone effects on whitening by inhibiting the tyrosine activity and melanin production, also safe and non-toxic, which will lead it to broad application prospects in whitening skin care products.